Chef David Higgs adapted his ‘waste not, want not’ childhood to his contemporary food philosophies
You were born in Walvis Bay, Namibia. What are your fondest memories from your youth?
David Higgs: Fishing, spending time with my father, and being on the beach with him. He was good with his hands, always building stuff.
What type of hydroponics did you have on the farm in Walvis due to the absence of proper soil?
It was more of a back garden than a farm. Because of the salt in the soils, nothing would grow. Through fishing and my dad’s backyard hydroponics, I was introduced to food and cooking without even realizing it. We grew everything, from vegetables and herbs to strawberries.
What smell or taste immediately takes you back to your childhood?
Packet tomato soup throws me right back. That and the smell of the sea – standing on the beach on that cold West Coast, with the sea mist rolling in. Also, the smell of fish on the fire – because the first fish out of the water always went onto the fire.
What was your favourite dish as a child?
We used to barter with the farmers. We would bring fish and then, to that same value, we would either get a head of cattle or sheep or be able to hunt some game. One of my favourite things was rendered fat from the sheep that was then kept in the larder and spread onto fresh white bread and sprinkled with sugar. I’m probably lucky to be alive today!
It sounds as though you invented the farm-to-table concept – ‘catch to braai’?
We didn’t – it seems as though that’s a modern-day marketing thing to entice people into your restaurant with a specific type of menu that is ‘farm to table’ or ‘nose to tail’. But what else would it be? For me, that’s just how we grew up in the ’70s. We caught our own fish and used everything – the head was used for curries, stews, and soups, and the leftovers were used for fish cakes and other things. Nothing was ever wasted. It was a standard thing as a child – something that I never really understood but, now, I totally get it.
What would adult David say to young David?
Maybe something clichéd like ‘don’t sweat the small stuff’ or ‘don’t take things so personally’. It’s difficult if that’s who you are, especially in the hospitality industry, when you want to deliver the best and then things don’t go that way. You can’t control everything. But I’m trying.
As a chef, is there a dish that you’ve eaten that has really knocked your socks off?
No, not literally, although pretty close. I had been in Australia for the Taste of Sydney and I was heading home after being there for about 36 hours. It was just before Marble opened and I needed to get back. I stopped at a restaurant called Spice Temple, owned by Neil Perry. I sat at the bar and they brought me a dish of steamed, peeled aubergine covered with a tangy miso pork mince, handfuls of coriander, and three-times chopped, blanched garlic. You then mixed everything through the aubergine and ate it. You don’t understand. Ridiculous. Absolutely ridiculous. I ordered the dish three times – I ordered it once, and then again… and then again. It might have been one too many, but it was delicious – the simplicity of it! Incredible flavours never to be forgotten.
How has the culinary scene evolved since you started your journey as a chef?
When I started out in 1989, we could get iceberg lettuce and curly parsley. That was about it. But now, we have so many different varieties of lettuces and every herb under the sun. That’s probably the biggest change – the increase in product and vegetables – and cheese! And wine – for those of us who were drinking wine back in 1989, all you had was Chateau Libertas, not that there’s anything wrong with that. It’s a great wine. But the variety now is incredible.
What type of patron are you when dining at a restaurant?
I am honestly the easiest guy. I love simple food. When I travel overseas, I enjoy going to fine(r)-dining restaurants, but I generally choose restaurants that have good local fare and a great wine list. I drink expensive wine and eat affordable food. I love travelling like that. I love it when people care about what they cook and my favourite meals are when I go to people’s houses and they cook for me – which doesn’t happen often, which is understandable. People are intimidated, even though I’m an easy customer. I do get difficult when things are incredibly expensive and the food and experience don’t quite match up to what they could have been.
Do you have a favourite dish to make at home?
Eggs and bacon. Hands down. Every kind of egg you know. Good fried eggs, omelettes – I do lots of egg-white omelettes nowadays because I’m an athlete… jokes! It’s just because I’m trying to stay lean. There’s just something about bacon, eggs, fresh tomatoes sliced on toast, green Tabasco… and then you can start adding the beans and everything else. I mean, come on!
You have a wonderful art collection at home. Have you always had an interest in art?
The art is just something that has come since moving to Johannesburg. I had a massive realization when I came to the city, which was how different it is compared to somewhere like New York or London. It’s the thing that I’m always trying to explain to people – foreigners specifically – when they come to South Africa. Instead of an international melting pot, it’s an African melting pot.
I see you are quite the car enthusiast. Are you a self-confessed petrolhead or is the EV option becoming attractive?
Now this is a tricky question. I mean, I absolutely love EV – the simplicity of the idea, even though I know it’s very complex. It’s smooth, it’s quick, and the interiors are just luxurious and simple. But unfortunately for me, it’s always going to come back to AV. The noisy bits always. I’m not even talking V6, but a noisy V8. That would be me.
Exciting projects on the horizon?
We have Marble Cape Town opening later this year and we also have The Pantry rolling out – Bedfordview is next, then Pretoria and Waterfall. The support that people have given us over the years has been incredible. We have an unbelievable team, and we want to keep investing in this country.
Text | Heléne Ramackers
Photography | Elsa Young
For more information, visit davidhiggs.co.za.
