Rich wildlife experience takes place with a major city in the background
As your aircraft descends into Nairobi and prepares to land, a look out of the window might give the impression that the airport is in the middle of the countryside, as you see open green plains, rivers and lakes on the descent.
In fact, the approach to Jomo Kenyatta International Airport often comes in over the unique and wonderful Nairobi National Park, with the Kenyan capital being the only African city to have a real wild space populated by four of the Big Five in addition to a huge range of other intriguing bush dwellers.
Within 10 minutes of leaving the airport, it’s possible to be checking in at the East Gate and undergoing the remarkable transition from a noisy, sprawling urban hub to pristine rural bliss where the grass dances in the breeze and the zebras swish their tails to keep the flies off.
This is no urban park as most would know it. Walking here is strictly prohibited, as an encounter with male buffaloes is a real likelihood, as is the possibility of encountering one of the resident lion prides. The park remains unfenced on the side furthest away from the city, allowing the movement of animals through the corridors that connect it with other reserves and which act as a buffer zone against the city.
Often viewed as a stopping-off point for visitors arriving or departing from a safari across the country, it’s no surprise that some visitors have their best sightings right here in this oasis. To make it even better, visitors are blessed with some great options when it comes to their stay in the park and shouldn’t be in any rush to move on to the next stop.
The habitat of 117km² comprises a combination of forest, open plains with dams and rivers, and even hippo pools where you can stretch your legs and take a walk with one of the rangers to look for a wallowing hippo or basking crocodile.
Safari on site
Within the park forest, Nairobi Tented Camp is simple but well-appointed, the essence of the safari experience under canvas with an evening campfire and the opportunity to hear (and sometimes even see) the lions claiming the territory nearby or the sawing leopards’ bark playing as the bush orchestra serenades the visitors.
This is more glamping than camping, with professional chefs whipping up three-course meals, a selection of drinks, hot showers, and flushing toilets. There is plenty to do through the day, with the traditional morning and evening game drives with one of the driver guides being just one activity.
There are many stories of guests emerging from their tents to see a black rhino with its calf outside, calmly browsing on the trees, providing the memory of a lifetime.
Bordering the park is the Ololo Lodge. Crossing the footbridge from the parking area on the park side of the river, a few steps bring visitors up to the immaculate lawn surrounding the swimming pool, the perfect place to spend a leisurely couple of hours with a pair of binoculars, a book, and a cold drink.
It’s not at all unusual to see a black rhino strolling carefree on the other side of the river. In fact, this is one place where these special creatures are thriving, and it’s just a short hop to go and visit Anselm Kitengela Glass and see the talented craftsmen creating an array of glassware – and maybe pick up a souvenir for the family.
Accommodation options range from the tower room – with its rooftop terrace offering stunning vistas across the park towards the city skyline – to the tented and stable rooms, which offer a more budget-friendly alternative.
Across the Mbagathi River lies Emakoko, the life’s work of Anthony and Emma Childs, who spent a long time identifying the right place to create their vision of the perfect home away from home in the bush. Crossing the footbridge from the park, it’s not uncommon to see a crocodile warming itself on the river’s edge below.
The main mess area with the bar greets the arrival of the thirsty, and the house special, a chilli dawa (‘medicine’ in Swahili), is a guaranteed thirst quencher. This is where the hosts mingle with guests by the fireplace in the evening chill and maybe share some of Anthony’s hair-raising encounters with snakes (he is also a director of Kenya’s Taylor Ashe Antivenom Foundation).
The rooms are dotted around the extensive grounds. At the top of the hill sits the newest addition, a private house. Available to families or small groups, this location has its own private pool, bar, and kitchen.
Those with energy can build up an appetite by taking a stroll up the steps to the house or alternatively relax and let a unique funicular do the work and take you up in style.
Safe spaces
Nearby, there are a couple of extra essential options. Visit the giraffe sanctuary, where it’s possible to feed endangered Rothschild giraffes and learn about these giant, graceful creatures.
Another favourite is the Sheldrick elephant orphanage, which rescues orphaned young elephants from around the country and rehabilitates them for release back into the wild as adults.
This magnificent ecosystem has not quite avoided the impact of bordering one of Africa’s fastest-growing cities. A railway bridge now crosses through it, and new roads needed to alleviate congestion have sliced off the edges, while the dream of owning land has led to a significant increase in human/wildlife conflict in neighbouring areas.
In order to ensure its survival, the Nairobi National Park needs to have paying guests who make it viable and provide the resources for the rangers who protect it, the guides who bring it to life, and the critically important ecosystem that it supports.
Text | Simon Marsh
Photography | Simon Marsh, Hemanshu Contractor
For more information or to book a stay, go to emakoko.com, porini.com and olololodge.com
