Animal inhabitants act out entertaining natural dramas in beautiful game reserve
“Get your cameras ready,” head guide Roelof Wiesner says. “You never know what’s up ahead.” Fresh on the trail of a leopard track, we follow the footprints along the sandy, snaking game path just before the ascent leading into the Kondoa mountain range, where it veers off into an overgrown area.
The signs are there, with the previous night’s game drive yielding two sets of spoor – one large, possibly that of a male, and one smaller imprint, probably belonging to a female. Fellow guests Theresa, Adele, Biénne, and Elise are helping to scan the area. For some, it would be the first time seeing a leopard on safari, making it that much more remarkable. “This leopard is really taunting us,” Wiesner sighs. Being his favourite animal to encounter in the wild, he glances over to tracker Elroy ‘Klippers’ Pietersen in the hope that his eagle eyes might notice the white tip of a tail. Pietersen shrugs his shoulders – today is not the day that the leopard wants to be found.
Tall tales
A giraffe lets out a belligerent snort. Glaring at the culprit who has served as motivation for his gallop across the plains, he looks rather unimpressed. Having been chased by a lion is not how he imagined his day would start. Engaging in full stalk mode, the lioness stops and flattens herself to such an extent that from where we are safely parked at a distance, she looks like a stone. Camouflaged next to a shrub, she has been seen, but that does not deter her from breaking into a run.
This opportunistic sub-adult lioness from the River Pride lacks the expertise to bring down the striking 3m-tall giraffe. One kick could send her flying or give her a serious injury, even killing her. Lions may have the benefit of speed – they can manage up to 80km/h, whereas giraffes lag behind at 55km/h. But it seems as though giraffes might have the upper hand – their height advantage and inquisitive nature increase their chances of not becoming breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
There’s another giraffe that has witnessed this spectacle. Apparently unafraid, he attempts to walk past the lion. She doesn’t realise that she has been spotted again and attempts another takedown, also unsuccessful.
Well spotted
It’s another glorious day in the Karoo. With views over the Sneeuberg mountains, the stylish Karoo Lodge Family Suite is home for the next three nights. Reimagined in 2023, the suites were rebuilt and refurbished to add a touch of glamour and introduce larger spaces for guests who prefer to slow things down. A lounge area divides the two stunning bedrooms, with a favourite space being the outside veranda, where it’s not uncommon to see wildlife appearing on the plains.
Wiesner is heading into the southerly part of the reserve on our afternoon game drive, where the topography is vastly different from the rest of the landscape. The prospect of tracking wild cheetahs has everyone excited, and as one of Samara’s most successful conservation stories, it’s an essential part of a stay here. Naledi and her four cubs are a force of nature. “This is her second litter of cubs,” Wiesner tells us. “She is an incredible mother. When her sister died, she took in her cubs and raised them. Her relaxed disposition allows us to spend time with her at a respectful distance, and her cubs have learnt that they too can remain calm when we approach on foot.”
Pietersen points the telemetry aerial in the direction where he thinks she might be. No sound from the control device. Wiesner drives a bit further, and Pietersen tries again. A faint beep. Pointing the telemetry in a region where she had been seen earlier in the day, two beeps are clearly audible. Pietersen exits his tracker seat to try and locate her. Suddenly, he waves to us, indicating for us to walk to where he is patiently waiting. It’s a good 700m away, but setting eyes on this exquisite family makes for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The cubs are playing under a tree.
Naledi is out in the open, and when one of the cubs approaches, she playfully rolls onto her back, a tell-tale indication that she is not threatened by our presence.
Developing legacy
Sarah Tompkins, co-founder of Samara, joins us for a bush dinner on our last night. Her passion for the place is undoubtedly why it has been and continues to be a great success story. “I saw a patch of land up for sale, so my husband Mark and I drove to see what it comprised. When we first set foot here, our friends thought we were crazy to tackle a project that seemed insurmountable.”
Some 27 years on, the future is looking bright for Samara. With three lodges completely off the grid and the expansion of the reserve incorporating an additional 4,000ha, more species will find a home in this breathtaking part of the Karoo.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, visit samara.co.za.
How to get there
Airlink connects Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town with Gqeberha.
