The Zambezi River provides a magnificent setting as well as the opportunity for both thrills and relaxation
There are times when you think twice about your life decisions. This was such a time, standing on the end of a wooden platform, looking down the hundred or so metres to the frothing water of the Zambezi River, suspended by a variety of ropes to which my life was now entirely entrusted.
As the guide said “Jump”, I threw myself off the edge, dropping 70m down into the gorge before progressing into a giant swing suspended about 30m above the water, watched by the rafters below who paused to observe in case I did indeed plunge into the river.
The Zambezi is a mystical place that latches onto you and weaves itself into your DNA, so that you feel the urge to return to it time after time. Maybe it’s the cry of the fish eagle, or the elephants, hippos and crocodiles that frequent its shores. Perhaps it’s the pure sense of tranquillity, tempered by a range of high-adrenaline activities that fulfil the needs of even the most ardent of adventurers. Or maybe it’s the irresistible allure of Nyami Nyami, the River God, beloved of the Tonga people who is said to control life both in and on the river, who makes it the unique place that it is.
Victoria Falls is split between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Both sides offer a plethora of activities and it is relatively straightforward to cross the bridge from one side to the other, though you should do your research on visa requirements. Staying on the Zimbabwe side, I split my time between Ilala Lodge in Victoria Falls town and Palm River Hotel a few kilometres upstream.
Ilala sits on land bordering the national park, which means guests are frequently treated to visitors of the four-legged variety, including regular elephant sightings. It’s a short walk to pretty much anywhere in town, including the national park, the Lookout Café and the curio markets and shops. The hotel oozes elegance with its reception area leading onto other rooms full of interesting facts and images about the fascinating history of Victoria Falls. This leads into the Cassia Restaurant, so popular with both residents and non-residents that advance booking is essential. The adjoining bar area is overseen by Basil, whose cocktails are legendary, and there are two swimming pools and a lounge area with Lamu-style day beds overlooking the grounds and water holes, meaning you can request a gin and tonic from your sun lounger while a pachyderm drinks from the waterhole below.
Adventure capital
Victoria Falls town is a destination of choice for a wide range of travellers, from hostel-based backpackers looking for a reasonably priced good time with a heady dose of adventure to honeymooners seeking a once-in-a-lifetime romantic experience, including fine dining, iconic experiences and lifelong memories, and retirees with a bit of disposable income wanting to enjoy the best that is on offer. There are options for each of these and others besides. The River Brewing Company in the heart of town is an excellent spot to try a range of beers brewed with Zambezi water while a local act performs, or to venture into the extensive markets for some local keepsakes. For the photographer, taking to the skies in a helicopter or a microlight presents a chance to get iconic footage.
The Wild Horizons gorge swing starts with going to the adventure centre for a briefing before the main event. Safety standards are second to none and while the triple lock system ensures you’re safer than you might be crossing a busy road, it nonetheless takes an override of the brain’s instinct for self-preservation to throw yourself over the edge. It heightens the senses – every visual and detail of the cliffs and foaming river below suddenly come into sharp focus.
There are also plenty of other options, including ziplining alternatives, that give amazing views over the gorge, or taking a seat at the rebuilt Lookout Café with a cold drink, watching the boats of white-water rafters passing below.
A quiet place
A few kilometres upstream of the town, the frenzy is replaced by a sense of stillness and serenity. The Palm River Hotel, which opened in 2021, sits on the banks of the river with wildlife passing by. Ra-Ikane River Cruises depart from here, offering interaction with the creatures of the Zambezi, lifetime photo opportunities and picture-perfect sunsets. There are honeymoon suites for special occasions with their own day rooms and copper bathtubs. For exclusive groups, there is a rather grand private villa that comes with its own swimming pool and braai area. The once again excellent restaurant flows beautifully out into the grounds with monkeys gallivanting and warthogs strolling along nonchalantly past the swimming pool, adding a timeless sense of repose.
Behind the scenes, the hotel has an extensive vegetable garden producing the fruit and vegetables for both sites and has plans in place to introduce grey water and solar power, with sustainability at the heart of the group’s operations. A high tea experience brings together the elegance of an English society favourite with an exquisite location.
Venturing out onto the river, there are plenty of options, with the choice of breakfast, lunch, sunset and dinner cruises. Being out on the Zambezi is bliss, with hippos wallowing in the shallows, elephants making crossing the river look like a lazy lap of the pool and weaver birds busily creating their homes in the trees. When the sun melts into the water, creating a ferocious orange glow at sunset, the magic of the Nyami Nyami takes hold and everything suddenly feels right with the world.
Text & Photography | Simon Marsh
For more information or to book a stay, go to ilalalodge.com and africanbushcamps.com.
