Beautifully renovated camp in the northern reaches of the Okavango Delta is nirvana for wildlife enthusiasts.
Hanging on for dear life, the bird’s bright orange legs are firmly wrapped around a thin reed. Swaying back and forth, the reed has gained momentum from the warm evening breeze, but the tiny creature is not in the least bit deterred by the motion it has to endure.
Sitting pretty is the most striking malachite kingfisher and, at only 13cm in length, it is not an easy bird to find amongst the foliage of the Maunachira River. With no distinct size difference between male and female, Ker & Downey Botswana Guides manager Thuso is unable to pinpoint its gender. He turns to specialist guide and boat captain Robbie, whose answer is the same, though he explains that the winged species where the females have to be larger, such as the African fish eagle, have that characteristic in order to protect their chicks.
We sit for a while, taking in the magnificence of this sighting. The malachite’s upper parts are bright metallic blue, its head features a short crest of black and white feathers, and rounding off the picture is a sharp, reddish-orange bill. Flitting effortlessly and swiftly to another reed on the opposite side of the channel, all we see is a blur of iridescent plumage. The bird seems to be looking for a meal, indicated by bobbing its body up and down.
Upgrading utopia
Okuti, meaning ‘an island’ in the Botswana Bayeyi tribe’s ShiYeyi language, is situated in the Moremi Game Reserve, part of the Okavango Delta. Featuring twice-daily activities that include either a game drive or a boat cruise, Okuti is a unique camp in terms of infrastructure. The building resembles Botswana’s House of Parliament and guests are accommodated in luxury tented masasas, which translates to ‘houses of reeds’ in an ancient tribal language.
An elevated wooden walkway leads to Masasa 1. With just seven masasas, two of them being family suites, peace and tranquillity prevail. Masasa 1 has a view of the river, and the birds are eager to start serenading guests sitting out on the deck before the sun has made its appearance. Known as the honeymoon suite, it is the only room with an outdoor bath and other luxurious aspects – a large bedroom, an inside lounge area, a bathroom with double vanities, and indoor and outdoor showers.
Meals are a melting pot of nationalities congregating around the firepit for breakfast, while brunch is enjoyed at a long dining table and dinner is served in the same setting. Conversations flow between a lovely family from Amsterdam, a couple from Seattle, two couples from Utah travelling together, and a family of four from Paris. They all have one common denominator – it is their first time in Botswana and they are making the most of their time here.
Sunsets and snorkels
Deciding on a boat cruise seems like a great idea – it’s cooler on the water and there is the possibility of seeing wildlife along the way. Boating into the sun, Thuso glances over to Robbie, who slows the boat down and switches off the engine. A large shape comes into view in the Xakanaxa channel – it’s an elephant!
Robbie assumes the animals would be at their favourite feeding spot amongst the papyrus reeds, but this imposing elephant bull is taking advantage of the deep water and submerges himself with only the tip of his trunk visible. Red lechwe are safely ensconced on one of the islands, an African fish eagle takes flight, and we see much more – including two spotted-necked otters, pygmy geese, a few African jacanas, a lesser jacana, and a pied kingfisher with a double black band (possibly a male) visibly looking for fish.
The sunset is extraordinary, and the clouds from earlier in the day have formed one of the best visual vistas imaginable. Two elephant bulls add to this magical moment by swimming across the river as the sun is sinking beneath the horizon.
Picky pachyderms
The first game drive begins with a sighting of a small breeding herd of elephants, one of them being a female with no tusks.
“It’s a genetic mutation,” Thuso points out. “She could have inherited it from the generational gene pool, either from her mother or her grandmother.” He goes on to explain that she is able to feed successfully and uses her trunk, which is a crucial part of an elephant’s anatomy, to gather food and drink water. Female elephants do well even without tusks, although they do help with breaking branches if need be. Males, on the other hand, need their tusks, especially if they get into a physical altercation.
An interesting fact is that female elephants wouldn’t want to mate with a tuskless male – even in the animal kingdom, they rely on good genetics (and looks, it seems) for the best possible survival of the species.
A highlight for most of the guests is seeing a pack of seven African wild dogs, consisting of a pregnant alpha female and six pups born the previous year. Feeding on what is left of an impala, the youngsters become playful, targeting a pup by relentlessly trying to grab his prized possession – the head of the antelope. After lots of squealing, they eventually leave him in peace to enjoy his meal.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, go to kerdowneybotswana.com.
Heléne’s flights between Cape Town and Maun on Airlink were sponsored by The Luxury Safari Company. For more information, go to theluxurysafaricompany.com.
