Blue-eyed babes are just one of the attractions of a remote wilderness getaway.
Do you have a bucket list? It’s not anywhere near as morbid as it might sound. Described by the Oxford Dictionary, it’s a number of experiences or achievements that a person hopes to have or accomplish during their lifetime. They go on to qualify it with, “making this trip is the first thing on my bucket list.”
One such place is Ker & Downey Botswana’s Kanana, a name that means ‘land of milk and honey’ in the country’s native Tswana language. Spanning an area of 98 km², it offers nature in abundance with prolific wildlife and luxurious accommodation.
Baby’s got blue eyes
Coming back to the ultimate bucket list, for me, it’s been a dream to see tiny cubs with blue eyes – not necessarily at the den site, as that makes them vulnerable to other predators but visible enough to witness them at a safe distance. So what a delight and privilege it was to set eyes on three four-week-old lion cubs, stashed away by their protective mother under the branches of a fallen leadwood tree. We encountered the lioness nursing the cubs twice, with the accompanying sound effects as the little ones tussled for milk.
When finding them on a few different occasions with the mother not present, Field Guide Ona explained that the lioness needs to eat in order to provide nutritiously rich milk for her offspring. Should she have made a kill, she will feed far away from where the cubs are in order not to attract hyenas or jackals that might want to harm her babies. The cubs’ eyes have recently opened (they are born blind) and appear blue, indicating that they are still very young.
Another highlight is discovering two tiny blue-eyed leopard cubs hiding inside the hollow branch of a dead leadwood tree. We see them on our last morning, and shy as they are, the more courageous one ventures briefly outside of his hiding quarters. Passing by the area en route back to the camp, the day has warmed up substantially, and according to Ona, the cubs have probably gone to sleep, as their most active times are early mornings and around sunset.
Dogs on patrol
With only eight tented suites, Kanana ensures privacy and exclusivity for its guests. At the end of a tree-lined path, the family suite is beautifully positioned under an imposing sausage tree, and a wooden walkway leads to an arrival point. A charcoal mosquito net envelops the white percale-linen-covered oversized bed, with a ceiling fan creating a cooling respite from the sweltering summer days. Should you wish to pen a postcard, a writing desk has been provided for that purpose. Behind the bed, a framed black-and-white photograph of a herd of elephants pays homage to the species that inhabit this special region of Botswana.
It’s impossible not to feel at home with the hospitable camp staff, and nothing is too much effort for them. The main camp area is a WiFi-free zone, and striking up a conversation with fellow guests proves to be a lot more meaningful than scrolling through a mobile device. Internet connection is available in the tented suites, however, if you need to let your loved ones know what a wonderful time you are having.
Dining is a communal affair with everyone seated at a long table, either on the outside deck or inside the main area. Don’t be alarmed when the animals that live nearby make their presence known. African wild dogs arrive one morning, only to disappear again without a trace. Re-emerging the same evening while guests are sitting around the firepit enjoying pre-dinner drinks, the dogs take down an impala, providing thrilling but gruesome entertainment.
Dining alone
Different lions take pride of place at Kanana. They vary in age and size, as well as the colour of their manes. On our first game drive, a male with a messily dishevelled head of hair fleetingly wakes up from his afternoon nap. He eyes the female lying a few metres away from him. When she gets up, he follows suit, but she finds a more comfortable spot in the shade to continue her siesta. Once he has marked his territory, he does the same as the female, resuming his slumber.
The last morning at the camp is filled to the brim with sightings. Two male lions have a heated argument, including loud growling, over the remains of a zebra kill. The one with a more pronounced mane is still feeding and clearly doesn’t want to share his prized possession – the zebra’s head. The one with the smaller mane sniffs around the area to see if there might be any scraps left, which makes the other lion both curious and annoyed. Another two male lions from a different coalition are walking across the plains towards the one trying to finish his meal. Will they fight it out? Hyenas are also lying in wait for any morsels left behind. Much to our relief, the incoming pair of lions change direction.
When it comes to food, big cats are known not to share and will fight tooth and nail for what they believe belongs to them. As the gorgeous male with his treasured meal looks up, the sun catches his golden eyes, the perfect conclusion to our final game drive.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, go to kerdowneybotswana.com. Heléne Ramackers’ Airlink flights between Cape Town and Maun were sponsored by The Luxury Safari Company (theluxurysafaricompany.com).
