Nowhere is the distinct topography of the Okavango Delta more apparent than from the air if you explore Botswana using air transfers or enjoy a helicopter experience.
As the Robinson R44 Raven II helicopter skimmed the grassy verge of a large lagoon and swooped up over the treeline, there was a moment of pure exhilaration and then awe at the unfolding wonder far below. An elated glance at pilot Ruben Timmermans from Maun-based Helicopter Horizons confirmed that the thrill was shared; we were birds – eagles – and this was the start of our dance with water, earth and sky.
When taking off from the helipad (a grassy clearing) near the dirt runway closest to Kwando Safari’s Four Rivers Camp, how unique an experience this is can’t be anticipated. Strapped in, with the cockpit providing 270° vistas, we surged upwards over the watery wonderland, over the seasonal floodplains and permanent lagoons of the Okavango Delta.
Drone imagery has made people more familiar with views from the air, but it can’t prepare you for the sensory thrill of flight.
The well-trodden, interlinked animal pathways spread out like the lines on the palm of a human hand, connecting dry forest areas to the Delta’s waterways, floating papyrus stands and islands teeming with wildlife.
“Elephants, three o’clock,” said Timmermans. These seven are part of Africa’s largest free-roaming, connected population; a 2022 aerial survey suggests around 230,000 elephants move seasonally between Angola, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe.
Then he pointed out a pod of hippos in a still pool edged with a large flock of pelicans. A giant crocodile swam through the crystal-clear water. A small herd of giraffes cast long shadows across an open field.
The Delta is unique because it’s formed by a river – the Okavango – that spills into the desert, not the sea. When the bushveld in central southern Africa gets drier in winter, the Delta fills with water from Angola’s highlands. The result? This wild green haven for elephants, lions, wild dogs, buffalos and many other species, including those specially adapted for the wet conditions, like the elusive sitatunga.
“The water’s just coming in now. We’re expecting another surge,” said Timmermans, commenting on the ever-changing yet eternal landscape.
Found via flight
All too soon, we saw the camp nestled on the verge of a permanent lagoon. Guests here enjoy exclusive use of the western side of the renowned Kwara Private Concession.
The flight to Four Rivers was my second of the day. That morning, I’d left Nxai Pan Lodge in a small Moremi Air charter. Pilot Ungwang Makuluba flew the plane as though it were an extension of her body.
“If I make any funny moves, don’t worry. There’s been a lot of bird activity in the area, and I’m just avoiding them,” she said during her safety briefing.
There are about 30 airstrips in the Delta within a 50-nautical mile range and plenty of traffic, so pilots must stay on top of their radio communication and be taught to always maintain situational awareness.
We flew over the runway and then turned to line up for our approach. The next group of passengers were waiting in the game drive vehicle. Loaded into the small plane just after we landed, Makuluba was off again within minutes.
“The safari vehicles always arrive well before the planes land in case they need to chase off roaming animals,” explained Nxai Pan guide JR Maphane.
Flying in these wild areas, most pilots will have a story to tell about encountering lions, elephants or other animals on the short bush runways.
This jet-setter approach – where you’re on safari spotting animals from the air almost before your holiday has started – has always been a part of Botswana’s safari culture. The country celebrated 100 years of powered flight in 2020. As glamorous as it seems, it’s rooted in practicality. Planes make it relatively quick and easy to reach remote destinations – a 40-minute flight instead of a 10-hour overland trip via 4×4 in some cases. In areas of the Delta, boats can be used seasonally, but air is the fastest way to get where you need to go.
Kwando’s marketing manager, Lindi van Rensburg, explained that she was ferried from Johannesburg to Maun in a tiny charter plane at just a few weeks old because driving would have taken her mom days. Her dad flies, too, and it’s as normal to her as getting an Uber in the city. Many of the staff from the lodges also fly in and out as a matter of routine, and all groceries arrive by air.
“In the peak season [roughly June to August], Maun becomes Africa’s second busiest airport in terms of flight movements after Johannesburg,” noted Michael Weyl, owner and CEO of Mack Air, speaking about their charter service.
We flew from Four Rivers to Kasane in one of their Cessna 208 Grand Caravans. Most small planes fly low enough to spot a large herd of buffalos or groups of elephants.
Flying also opened up Botswana to scientists, like the ones involved in the aerial elephant survey, a feat that could never have been performed on the ground.
Veteran pilot, award-winning filmmaker and passionate conservationist Mike Holding from AfriScreen Films knows firsthand how important flying is to sharing Botswana’s stories. For about 35 years, he’s been the principal wildlife cameraman on numerous high-end blue-chip natural history films and TV series. He also volunteers his time and plane for conservation-related work.
“I have been flying here for years,” says Holding, “and the wonder of the Okavango from the air never loses its thrill. There’s really no other way to appreciate the immense complexity of this fragile wetland – it really comes alive when you experience it from the air. I use the plane extensively for film projects, monitoring the flood, finding new areas to film and watching animal movements – it’s a vital component. And I volunteer to help with research activities – tracking collared animals, wildlife surveys and monitoring the flood and fires. Experienced eyes in the sky are vital for conservation.”
Hopping about
Don’t underestimate a helicopter’s agility in a skilful pilot’s hands. Maun-based Helicopter Horizons serves the whole Delta, working with different lodges and operators to provide a range of bespoke experiences.
As well as transfers between lodges, there are ‘doors off’ scenic flights, romantic champagne setups and conservation and coexistence experiences that let you meet the people of Botswana living on the fringes of some of its wildlife areas.
Botswana offers young helicopters and fixed-wing pilots a dream environment to hone skills and record hours. According to civil aviation data, at any one time, about 70 general aviation aircraft are based in Maun, flying 365 days a year. The hops between camps mean pilots can easily do half a dozen takeoffs and landings daily.
Text | Dianne Tipping-Woods
Photography | Supplied
For more information, go to kwando.co.bw and africaseden.travel.
