Leopards lurk everywhere in and around wonderfully luxurious private lodge
It isn’t every day that one is on foot with a handsome young game ranger while a large male leopard is padding along close by.
“Look!” Daniel Anthony whispers. “There he goes!”
This is well within the safari lodge’s camp perimeter and, while en route to the boma for dinner, with room key still in hand, we watch the big cat purposefully strolling along before disappearing into the darkness of the African night.
“It’s been a while since we had a leopard in camp,” Anthony whispers as we resume the short walk to the boma for dinner. “But it does happen.”
It is an incredible start to a four-day stay at Chitwa Chitwa, a spectacular safari lodge located on the banks of one of the largest perennial bodies of water in the 65,000ha Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve. The Sabi Sand is, of course, famous for its phenomenal leopard sightings and, as it turns out, this lodge is no exception.
Comprising six individually designed suites, each with its own dramatic flair and eclectic decor, Chitwa Chitwa derives its name from an ageing giraffe bull with creaking joints that frequented the lake back in the day when the lodge was still a private retreat. The emblem of the lodge is a fitting tribute to the memory of this special creature.
Each of the spacious suites ensures maximum privacy and offers superb views of the lake and both its resident wildlife and those stopping by for a drink. In just a short few hours, visitors include crocodiles, hippos, elephants, kudu, impala, buffalo, nyala, and waterbuck – all seen while seated on the sun lounger on the private deck.
Mothers and children
Earlier that afternoon, during the first game drive, Anthony and tracker Bethuel Sithole had found the outing’s first leopard, an extraordinarily beautiful sighting of a female, known as Wakita, as she lay resting against a sandy termite mound lit by the golden rays of the setting sun.
The best thing was being the only vehicle there, which meant that we were able to spend some quality time with her and observe her as she started to move around. Focusing intently on a nearby clump of high grass, she suddenly pounced and rooted around a little before emerging again without, unfortunately for her, whatever she had spotted.
The blazing fire in the boma, along with a generous amount of cooked food, provided the perfect preparation for a deep night’s rest. Being woken by the bellowing of the lake’s resident hippos, there was an early morning start for another safari adventure.
“Get your cameras ready!” Anthony calls out as he manoeuvres the vehicle along a bend in the road. “It is going to be another great sighting!”
Nobody was expecting another leopard quite so soon but, as it turns out, there are two – a female named Xidulu with Nhenhe, her almost fully grown male son. While mum walks along the road, Nhenhe is showing the tell-tale signs of his young age. Ducking behind several bushes, he playfully pounces and mock-attacks his indulgent mum, swatting her softly on the side of her head.
His efforts pay off and, eliciting her high-spirited nature, the two leopards gambol off into the bush together.
After breakfast, and a wonderful outdoor shower, it is time to charge camera and phone batteries and relax. With the sun now high overhead, it is the perfect setting as one herd of elephants after another appears from the bush to drink from the lake – mothers, aunts, juveniles, and babies, along with several young bulls.
One of the bulls is trumpeting excitedly as he hurries in ungainly fashion to reach the water’s edge. A tiny calf half-trots beneath his mum’s belly and legs, swinging his little trunk from side to side in an effort to keep up. It is a truly lovely sight.
Sipping at sundown
A surprise is in store for all the guests later that day, after another exciting game drive. The sun is slowly setting and, heading back in the direction of the lodge, Anthony manoeuvres the vehicle across a beautiful open area dotted by marula and jackalberry trees before coming to a stop amid a scattering of twinkling lights.
It is time for sundowners, but not such as any have ever experienced before!
Busi Chiloane, the wonderful lodge manager, welcomes everyone and invites them to rinse their hands with warm water poured from a jug over a copper bowl. Passing out hand towels, she gestures to a specially kitted-out game drive vehicle draped with fairy lights that serves as both bar and buffet.
Lit candelabras provide a touch of elegance and, as other lodge vehicles pull into the clearing, more guests join the party and help themselves to paper cones brimming with crisps, platters of fresh fruit, and other bar snacks. Wine corks are popping and, at the far end of the vehicle, a small pizza oven is ablaze! A short time later, Chiloane is serving hot slices of pizza and offering a range of toppings on the side!
That same night, seated by the warm glow of the open fireplace in the suite and hearing an orchestra of cicadas outside, there is an opportunity to revel in this – an unsurpassed safari experience.
Text and photography | Fransje Van Riel
For more information or to book a stay, go to chitwa.co.za.
