Magnificent cats and their stories add richness to a luxury lodge stay
We are hot on the trail of a huge male leopard. When we catch a brief glimpse of him in what is referred to in photographic terms as the ‘golden hour’, his rosettes glisten in the afternoon sunlight and it has become clear that everyone would like to see him.
“He went into the drainage line,” field guide Piérre confirms with tracker Ntsako, who gestures to Piérre that we continue our pursuit. Suddenly, a bushbuck sounds the alarm, not once, but twice. It is a deep barking sound, which sends the leopard into an impenetrable thicket. Ntsako points in a forward direction, indicating to Piérre that he should carry on parallel to the dense foliage. Excitement is evident in the radio chatter and the team is trying to relocate the leopard, coupled with a good amount of bundu bashing that gets the pulse racing.
With a few more bushes flattened, we arrive at the sighting and Piérre cuts the engine. To the right of the vehicle, the cat has positioned himself in the grass next to a small shrub. Turning towards us, Piérre shares the story of this beautiful leopard.
Making short work
“His name is Ncila and he is one of the leopards with the biggest rosette patterns in the Lion Sands concession. Born in around 2016 in the Kruger National Park, he has distinctive features, which include yellow-green eyes, large rosettes similar to those of a jaguar, high, rounded cheekbones and an unusually short tail, which is what his name means in the native Shangaan language.”
Ncila is incredibly territorial and the newly opened wound above his right eye speaks of a scuffle. Piérre corroborates that he came to blows with another male leopard in October 2024 over either territory or a female. He seems to be firmly in charge of his 30–50 km² range in which Lion Sands Game Reserve is situated, even though that’s shrunk over time due to conflict with other males. While we spend some time admiring his magnificence, Ncila starts his fastidious grooming process, something big and small cats take pride in. They are clean animals and after Ncila has cleaned his face, he moves on to his feet. He had to walk through grass to get to where he is and he obviously got his feet dirty, so he cleanses each pad with great care.
Action in the area
Deriving its name from the Narina trogon, Lion Sands Narina Lodge is every bit as beautiful as the bird, which is native to the forests and woodlands of the Afro-tropics. A stay here evokes a feeling of being ensconced in nature, with all the superlative luxuries that go hand in hand with being at a luxury property.
Situated in the Kruger National Park and bordering the Sabi Sand Nature Reserve, guests have the freedom to pop over to the other side, should the sightings on this fringe of the river not quite meet with their expectations. But the wildlife always makes an appearance, even at the lodge.
While we’re having lunch on the deck with vistas over the Sabie River, a bushbuck comes into view. In this ideal environment for the medium-sized bushland-dwelling antelope, these solitary browsers have it all at their disposal in and around the lodge, with tall grasses in abundance.
Our butler Ellon calls us over to the edge of the wooden deck to see what a loud whooshing sound is all about. A small breeding herd of elephants is busy crossing the river from an island in the middle and the matriarch makes her displeasure known to the crocodile that is sunning himself on the sandbank. She retreats and launches herself forward, making a big and loud splash, as if to say, “Stay away from me and my family!”
Buffaloes are often immersed in the river and these members of the Big Five give you the beady eye from across the water. Why do buffaloes always look like you owe them money?
The nine suites at the lodge are all river-facing and creature comforts include a lounge, bedroom, bathroom with double vanities, freestanding bath, as well as indoor and outdoor shower. On our private deck, the plunge pool is the ideal respite to cool off after a leisurely breakfast or before indulging in high tea.
Purrfect scenarios
Big cat sightings in the Lion Sands concession are hard to rival. Each day brings a new surprise and the emotion of sitting safely in a game viewer next to a leopard in a tree is difficult to describe.
Piérre and Ntsako find three leopards on our morning game drive and one of them is a cub! With cameras clicking, we marvel at the exquisite Mgiba female with her pinkish nose, bright green eyes and relaxed disposition. She is fast asleep in a marula tree and eventually opens her eyes, so that we can admire her splendour.
In another marula tree, Golonyi has stashed her male impala kill, which she and her cub have been feeding on for the last two days. The cub is gorgeous and starts tucking in to what we imagine must taste like old biltong.
Precariously balanced, the carcass tumbles to the ground, much to the delight of four hyenas lying in wait. A few of them sniff at the base of tree, hoping for a few additional morsels that they can scavenge. Lesson learnt, the cub looks sheepishly over to its mother, eyes wide. Glancing back to her offspring, she’s sure to forgive the little tyke, something a good mother will certainly do.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, go to more.co.za/lionsands/narina-lodge.
Heléne’s flights between Cape Town and Skukuza on Airlink were sponsored by Mahlatini Luxury Travel.
For more information, go to mahlatini.com.
