Magnificent Zambian game reserve is heaven for local lion population
Shielded by palm fringes and termite mounds that make up an excellent hiding place, only a silhouette is visible. Having just woken up, the lioness lifts her head, glances upwards, and rolls over to the other side.
Not quite fully alert, she stretches, yawns, and moves to the edge of the island. Seen through the yellow grass, she is every bit as beautiful as she is fierce. The sun’s rays glisten on her golden eyes, and it is evident that she has seen something of interest. Moving stealthily, except for the rustling of the grass, she is still unseen, but for how long? Her pink nose is an indication that she is rather young, but the lioness is clearly on the prowl. Does she lack the experience? Only time will tell.
Stalking sunsets
This game drive began immediately upon leaving the Busanga airstrip en route to Chisa Busanga Camp. Guide Harry and spotter (similar to a tracker, but a trainee guide seated next to the guide) Bobby both talk about the geography of the region, the wildlife that inhabit it, and, of course, the lions that have made this untrodden part of Zambia’s Kafue National Park their home.
Veering off in a westerly direction, Harry picks up his binoculars and becomes silent for a moment. He suddenly announces: “Look! Lions – over there!” gesturing to a section beyond my periphery. Blinking twice to spot where he is pointing to, the shape of the palm-dotted island comes into view. There she is! In the distance, a herd of puku is oblivious to her presence. The cat slowly puts one foot in front of the other while at the same time flattening herself to stay obscured from a possible takedown.
Her mouth is slightly open, and she’s panting audibly due to an increase in adrenaline. Engaged in full stalk mode, she is so close to the game drive vehicle, it’s easy to notice that her tawny coat is shiny, and there are a few pronounced spots left under her eyes from when she was a cub. Her left ear has two notches in it. This stunning lioness is from the main pride of Busanga Plains. Her lithe frame is testament to her hunting prowess, but just as she reaches level ground, a sharp whistle escapes the puku’s lips, sending them all scattering in different directions. Now that her cover is blown, she decides to have a catnap with her siblings and indulge in a spirited roll-around. The vehicle stays with the pride of seven as the sun sinks below the horizon, casting picturesque hues of pinks and oranges. The privilege of spending time with these incredible big cats should never be underestimated.
Nesting instincts
The ingenious design of Chisa Busanga Camp’s four ‘bird’s nests’ villas pays homage to the incessantly busy weavers that live around the lodge. With only four of these architectural marvels, the feeling of exclusivity is keenly felt when navigating the steps up to the front door.
Views over the Busanga Plains are breathtaking from the bedrooms, and don’t be surprised if you encounter wildlife on your doorstep. A loud rustling in the leaves calls for closer inspection. Will it go away? Is it perhaps an adorable puku, a gorgeous red lechwe, or even better – a very shy oribi that is merely passing through? Walking to the front of the nest, it seems as though it’s coming from the right-hand side and, being 4m up in the treetops, the decision to open the front door and peer down to what’s making the sound is not taken lightly. It’s a hippo! Out of the muddy water in the middle of the day, he looks like he’s having a nap, but he is in fact grazing close to nest number four. As I retreat back to the safety of the room, he seems to hear my gasp, as he looks up with his red eyes and dashes away into the foliage. The jury is still out on who got the bigger fright! A Google search for “Can hippos climb stairs?” yields a scary ”Yes, they can”!
Wildlife aplenty makes its way to the watering hole in front of the lodge, from herds of wildebeest to families of warthog and the two hippos that live there. The main area is where all meals are enjoyed, and guests dine together while head chef Morgan cooks delicious brunch or dinner in the interactive kitchen a few metres away. Under an imposing sausage tree, early morning conversations are the best start to the day, with a crackling campfire in the middle where the chef is preparing the day’s choice of porridge.
Home on the range
The lion dynamics at Busanga Plains are fascinating. “Each pride needs their home range and, in spite of the abundance of food, it’s important to note that smaller prides are usually more successful, since a hunt will sustain a family of five for a lot longer than 15 lions feeding on one puku,” Harry explains during our morning coffee stop under ‘1 Fig’, a huge and iconic fig tree that often sees Yaya’s cubs climbing the tree branches while their mom is on the ground watching over them. “With the wealth of plains game, the lions don’t have to cover big distances in order to find food, making Busanga Plains an incredible place for lion sightings.”
As if on cue, Princess appears during our game drive, along with sub-adults and cubs of different ages. The two young cubs are playful, much to the annoyance of the older male siblings, whose father is undoubtedly Mohawk, so named because he sports the tiniest little ‘buzz cut’. With a bit of water in the channel, one of the cubs carefully leans in for a drink, casting a reflection and making everyone go “Ah, what a cutie”.
Text & Photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, go to greensafaris.com.
Heléne Ramackers’ flights between Cape Town and Lusaka on Airlink were sponsored by Audley Travel. For more information, go to audleytravel.com.
