Traditional hospitality isĀ augmented by modern luxuryĀ in Lowveld lodge
Upon arrival at Nyala Safari Lodge,Ā the name of which comes from the Zulu wordĀ inxalaĀ meaning āonion,ā in reference to the distinctive white lines on the sides of nyala antelope, itās as though you step back through a tunnel of time. I felt as though I had been transported back to 1966 and my first visit to the Kruger National Park.
There are five rondavels set out in lush green surroundings that are in a stark juxtaposition to the bushveld just outside the encompassing game fence. The purpose of that boundary is to keep out the larger species like elephants yet allow the smaller game to wander through.
The actual footprint of the lodge is compact, but it is laid out in such a way that it makes it seem larger than it is. And although itās intimate, there is enough space between the rondavels to allow guests to feel relaxed and secluded.
Emotional nostalgia aside, it is essential to acknowledge that the only tangible similarity between the Kruger National Park camp layout of 1966 and the modern splendour of the current Nyala Safari Lodge is in the shape of the rondavels.
As the door to the accommodation swings open, the initial illusion of a bygone era is promptly replaced by the reality of exquisite fixtures and finishes. The accommodation is far more spacious than the exterior leads you to believe ā itās always amazing how deceptive circular buildings can be. Crisp linen, a soothing neutral colour palette, and a regulation mosquito net combine to create a comfortable and relaxing environment. The space also features a desk, a pair of inviting chairs, and a built-in cupboard offering both hanging and shelving for luggage and clothes.
Enjoyment in the details
A set of double doors gives access to an intimate verandah that provides a vantage point to contemplate the manicured lawns and lush vegetation that stretch out in front of the chalet.
In contrast to the pre-refurbishment era, when rondavels were compact with all ablutions included in the living space, the current design features a spacious bathroom with a sculptured oval bath, an indoor shower, and a vanity boasting double basins and mirrors. Naturally, there is an outdoor shower that guests are encouraged to try at least once during their stay. Using this feature during a lightning storm is a captivating experience of simultaneous showering and being rained on while flashes of lightning illuminate the tree in front of the accommodation. Itās not a recommended practice, but itās undeniably exhilarating.
The whimsical touch of ātowel animalsā on the bed greets guests. Converting the guest towels into elephant-shaped configurations with eyes and a leaf on the tip of the trunk provides a playful yet memorable detail.
The game viewers, an integral part of the safari experience, differ from the usual 10-seater vehicles found in most of the lodges. This one has a capacity for six guests and offers luxurious seating and convenient access via a side door. Being unaccustomed to this configuration, my initial attempts at ingress and egress involved climbing over the side rather than utilising the door, a comical error rectified with laughter and a newfound appreciation for checking the number of doors.
Exploring the lodgeās surroundings, there is a persistent feeling of being observed, a sensation validated on discovering a watchful squirrel overseeing my wanderings. The lodgeās gardens, meticulously tended by managers David and Nicki, are a spectacular oasis of green. Their commitment extends even to repurposing old agricultural implements, adding a unique touch to the landscape.
Take it slow
The inviting pool tempts guests, but you can also sit on the deck, anticipating the arrival of various species drawn to the pools formed in the hollows of the dry riverbed. Here, guests gather for post-game drive breakfasts. Amid shared tales of morning sightings, which included a leopard cub, everyone expresses their hopes for upcoming excursions.
The expansive verandah, enveloping the main building, features an indoor lounge facing an open-plan kitchen, providing a comfortable setting for guests to enjoy meals or simply relax while overlooking the seasonal Mohlabetsi River.
The passage of time is unhurried, a defining characteristic that enhances the overall experience. Guests are not subjected to pressure. Rather, they are encouraged to savour all the amenities the camp offers at their own pace.
The food is excellent, especially the lemon meringue pie, prepared in the open-plan kitchen, in full view of the guests. This gives a sense of intimacy to the visit, part of the immersive nature of a stay there.
On one of the drives, a tortoise is making its way across the road. Its leisurely meanderings are a metaphor for the pace at which time passed at the lodge. That being said, the tortoise eventually vanished into the grass at the roadside and there would soon need to be a return to urban life.
Text and Photography |Ā David Batzofin
For more information or to book a stay, go toĀ nyalasafarilodge.co.za.