Leopards are a prime attraction at luxury Lowveld lodge
Time with a leopard is never time wasted. Whoever uttered those words knew what they were talking about. And what is better than finding one leopard in a tree? You guessed – two leopards in two different trees!
On a drive out from andBeyond Tengile River Lodge in Sabi Sand Game Reserve, field guide Chris (supported by tracker Colin) points to a tree in the distance. Perched in a marula tree, a striking female leopard has draped herself over a branch. She is alert, occasionally glancing towards the Sand River, which she can clearly observe from her elevated vantage point, where there might be a hunting opportunity for her.
Petite and gorgeous, her yellow eyes point to her lineage – she is the daughter of the ‘Teardrop’ female. Leopards and their descendancy are identified through whisker spot patterns, unique markings on the face and nicks or cuts on the ear.
What makes this sighting extra special is that we saw her as a cub in 2019, and she has grown into an independent adult known as the River Rocks female. It is a blustery morning, and the branch starts swaying, but she doesn’t seem to be perturbed by the motion and even has a little snooze.
Food and drink
In another marula tree, the Nkova male leopard is almost sitting upright, unable to comfortably position himself on a branch as his stomach is very full. Having overindulged on his male impala kill that he has safely hoisted in the fork of a tree, he is panting heavily, an indication that he has eaten too much. The early morning sun is shining directly onto his stunning rosetted coat, which seems to make him agitated, and he decides to look for shelter elsewhere in the tree. We leave him to digest his meal and find him in the afternoon on the ground below the tree, keeping a watchful eye over his prized meal. Born in September 2020 to the Msuthu female and the Hanyile male, he is a big, stocky boy, and his name means ‘river’ in Shangaan.
On the afternoon game drive, Hanyile is walking right in the middle of the road, pausing every now and then to sniff the leaves and mark his territory.
At nine years old, his face bears a number of battle scars, indicators of disputes with other males in the region, with the newest one being a scuffle between him and the skittish Sands End male leopard. His gaunt shape is a sign that he has not had a meal in a few days, and he appears to be on the lookout for something to eat. Following him as he strides into the sunset, he needs to cross the bridge over the river, but he suddenly veers off to the left of the vehicle. Where will he go? Will he carry on patrolling in the dry riverbed? Hanyile stops in his tracks, lifts his head and hotfoots it into the channel. There is a puddle of water! Will he bypass it? Or is he thirsty? He walks around it, lowers his body and starts lapping up the quenching sustenance. Bearing witness to a leopard drinking water is not something you see every day, and we take in the magic of this moment that is so rare to experience.
Comfortable adventure
The lodge occupies a perfect spot overlooking the seasonal Sand River. Blended into the landscape and the surrounding trees through the use of new and repurposed materials, the nine suites are architectural marvels, and the furnishings present an ode to the wildlife that inhabit the wilderness.
The large front door opens to a bar and lounge area with a coffee and drinks station, sure to be visited for relaxing moments seated on the comfortable couch with a cappuccino or a preferred tipple in hand. To the left, a large bedroom is a haven of peace and quiet where a great night’s sleep is imperative to fully appreciate incredible bush sunrises. The expansive bathroom is the ideal place in which to enjoy a bath or choose between an indoor or outdoor shower. During the hot summer months, the large pool will refresh you and a few birds or vervet monkeys might pay a visit.
Head chef Benjamin and his team create menus and meals for the discerning palate, and you will never go hungry in this dining room. On the second night, there was a delectable boma dinner. A spread of salads, soups, sauces, assorted vegetables and freshly grilled meats are prepared, alongside tasty South African delicacies and expertly selected wine pairings. Meals are served in the dining area with sweeping vistas over the bushveld and Sand River. And don’t be surprised when a herd of elephants come for a drink from the river, or the resident woodland kingfisher makes a high-pitched alarm call while you are enjoying a delicious lunch. Nature really is everywhere.
Guests staying at the lodge indirectly contribute to various conservation efforts across the Sabi Sand Game Reserve.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information, go to andbeyond.com. Heléne Ramackers’ flights between Cape Town and Skukuza on Airlink were sponsored by Mahlatini Luxury Travel. For more information, go to mahlatini.com.
