Predator meets prey in Nature’s eternal dance at safari lodge in northern Botswana
The unforgiving landscape stretches as far as the eye can see. As we approach, seated in a comfortable Robinson R44, Helicopter Horizons line pilot Cole points his aircraft towards a patch of grass. Thinking out loud as to why he is not landing on the ‘helipad’ (a large wooden platform), he explains that there is another flight a mere two minutes behind us. In the absence of an airstrip, the only way to get to Wilderness Mokete is via helicopter, adding an exciting entrance to this ambitious project.
A few adjectives spring to mind when describing the terrain – raw, wild and completely untamed. In this part of Botswana’s Mababe Depression, the camp was constructed with no unnecessary frills so as not to detract from the vastness of the topography. Only nine identically designed oversized tented suites are positioned on either side of the main area in a semi-circular fashion. Winding wooden walkways lead to the suites, pathways to an exceptional adventure.
Creature comforts
The camp has deliberately been built using natural materials, with timber, canvas and rope giving way to muted textiles. Melding beautifully with the surrounding wilderness, the generosity of space is felt when relaxing in the tents or dining in the main area. Trees have been strategically planted to flank the suites, casting cooling shade when and where most needed.
In what is best referred to as an interaction between African and European influences, the design details honour both continents.
Heritage and innovation can be seen through the merging of architectural finesse and the creation of a harmonious immersion in being one with nature. Opting to leave the outside canvas of the tented suite open allows for the drama of listening or looking out for nocturnal creatures – or anything that might decide to brush up against the exterior confines of the netting. Cream-coloured curtains that double up as a mosquito net can be pulled closed to keep unwanted critters out, forming a welcome cocoon that works well with the air conditioning, a luxurious rarity in a safari lodge. With temperatures soaring in summer and plummeting during the winter months, guests are ensured a pleasant in-room climate. When the heat gets a bit much, take a dip in the private plunge pool on the outside deck while surveying your surroundings for any wildlife that might meander in the immediate vicinity. A family of banded mongooses seems to favour the area to the right of my tented suite, scurrying off under the deck for a shielded respite.
Treacherous menu
It’s a game as old as time – the spirited dance between predator and prey. Giant herds of buffalo in their hundreds make their presence known as they converge on the plains. Through a cloud of dust, they stampede in unison in an attempt to steer clear of the resident Mokete pride. The 14-strong group of lions consists of two males, six females and six cubs, and their sustenance of choice is buffalo. And not just any old buffalo. The odd ‘dagga boy’ (elderly male buffaloes that get kicked out of the herd) could pass as a filling snack that will last a few days, but instead, the pride takes down the big boys. According to guide Emmanuel, the cubs will learn from their parents, and they too will only arrange their hunting around buffalo. In the meantime, the youngsters enjoy the spoils that their parents (mostly their mothers) provide for them.
Witnessing a kill isn’t for everyone. The circle of life is never easy to watch. We get to the sighting as the one female is still suffocating a buffalo. She is clearly exhausted, panting heavily and doesn’t even make an effort to start feeding. All her energy has gone into securing a meal that should sustain the pride for more than a day.
The females and cubs begin devouring the buffalo, which isn’t as simple as it sounds. When it comes to predators feeding, there is zero etiquette, let alone table manners. Claws are being dug into the carcass to try to break through the buffalo’s thick skin. The cubs aren’t very successful yet, clearly still lacking the skill. Suddenly, pandemonium erupts as one of the cubs is getting too close for comfort to one of the other female’s portions. The lioness lets out a loud snarl, followed by an aggressive smack at the cub. After retaliating by showing his teeth, the smaller cat cowers away, seeking out his mother, who pacifies him with a gentle grooming.
We return just after sunrise and find that the male has now made an appearance. He is absolutely gorgeous, with a full mane that is glistening in the early morning sunlight. What follows is a surprising display of fatherhood – he allows his sons to feed with him. Looking for his approval, the one cub climbs on top of the carcass, but his father doesn’t look too impressed. It takes just one stare to indicate to the cub that he needs to move away. The females and other cubs have ventured off to the marsh for some liquid refreshment. Joining them a while later, the female seems nonplussed by the male, baring her canines and reaching over to assert her dominance. He retreats, knowing not to mess with the provider of his food.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, go to wildernessdestinations.com.
