Red earth and green landscapes create a picture-perfect finish in the semi-desert
Set against the backdrop of the Karonnaberg Mountains, Loapi is one of three camps on Tswalu Kalahari Reserve and is the epitome of supreme luxury in this special corner of the southern Kalahari. With only six extravagant tented homes, the privilege of space and exclusivity is felt when first stepping out of the safari vehicle.
Located on the northeastern side of the reserve, every homestead has breathtaking views over the savannah and mountainous escarpment. Spanning between 300m2 (one-bedroom) and 400m2 (two-bedrooms), the size of the chalets far exceeds the typical safari lodge.
Then again, this is no ordinary lodge. It’s more like a self-contained home with your own house manager, chef, guide and tracker. There’s no more jostling for space on the game drive vehicle – this is your dedicated private safari.
House manager Andries and chef Mpho await guests’ arrival at Loapi after the welcome by guide Marius and tracker Piet. Andries pushes open the large wooden front door, revealing the interior of the tent. There is a dining room and a lounge that leads to an outside verandah with those wraparound views again. Ample outdoor seating areas allow you to make the most of the cooling breeze. And there’s a plunge pool! Reclining on the sun loungers following a dip in the clear water is an absolute must.
The bedroom is a dreamy, cocoon-like sanctuary reserved for a great night’s sleep. Since there is no malaria here, mosquito nets can be left open to maximise the vistas. Waking up to the sky painted in hues of pinks and oranges heralds an amazing start to the day. That is, if you choose to go on safari at that time, as there is no set schedule at Tswalu.
Slow, then sweet
Finding two of the northern pride lionesses on the afternoon drive is a noteworthy feat. After having tracked them for quite some time, with Marius and Piet alighting from the vehicle to increase the chances of spotting them, they are spotted sitting pretty a few metres away under a bushman raisin tree. As one starts yawning, another follows suit – a clear indication that they are about to start getting active. Fully alert, they stretch and begin moving through the veld. Marius is hoping that they will lead us to their cubs, but they seem more interested in finding something to eat. The guides leave them be so as not to spoil their hunt.
Just before sunrise the following day, on the western side of the reserve, we are privy to a meerkat encounter. These habituated meerkats are busy leaving the confines of their burrow one by one, standing at the highest point to fully immerse themselves in the early morning rays. “Wait for it,” Marius grins, like a proud father. Five of the tiniest meerkats make their appearance, cornering the market on cuteness.
Fast food
Marius and Piet want to track down a family of three cheetahs, which is not as easy as it sounds. The only option is for them to walk up the mountain to try and find their spoor. They eventually ascertain that the cats have gone over to the other side, as there are fresh prints in the sand. The female is resting in the shade of a shepherd’s tree, and Marius suggests that we approach her on foot. Never having been on an actual walking safari, this causes excitement and nervousness at the same time. Sensing hesitation, Marius states that if there is any danger, his instructions must be heeded.
Leading the way with his CZ.375 bolt-action rifle, Marius indicates the need to walk in single file. Edging closer to the cheetahs, the realisation that trepidation was unfounded is clear. The mother is so relaxed that she doesn’t even bother to look up. Her three cubs are enjoying a steenbok that she has caught for them as she keeps a close watch over her offspring. She gets up to find a different spot where they will be spending the rest of the day. Leaning forward, she starts grooming one of the cubs. This sign of cleanliness and affection clearly meets with his approval, as he purrs really loudly.
The afternoon game drive is a definite highlight, tracking the northern pride and seeing all eight cubs! A successful oryx hunt has resulted in full, round bellies. The little ones are getting restless, and both mothers are hot and bothered from overindulging. The vehicle stays with them for about three hours, observing lots of playful tussles and aggressive growls when it comes to the carcass. The most adorable cub, at one point, turns on his back with his face pointing towards us. What a once-in-a-lifetime experience…
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, visit tswalu.com.
