Photographic safaris bring wildlife enthusiasts closer to the creatures of the Chobe River
Between the fluid borders of Namibia and Botswana, the Chobe River splits into two tributaries, revealing a wildlife destination that is hard to rival. Moored on the Namibian side of the river, the solar-powered Pangolin Voyager is an engineering and architectural marvel. With only five cabins, it’s a wonderful departure point for setting sight on the regular parade of elephants from the upstairs viewing deck or while out on a boating safari with Pangolin Photo host Pusetso Nteta and skipper and guide Ray.
Two large bull elephants are coming down for a drink and an aquatic splash-about. They suddenly face off and audibly connect trunks, dunking one another into the water. With temperatures in the high thirties, even the wildlife know the cooling effects that the Chobe River has to offer. Observing them for a while, the smaller one is sloshing in the front while the larger elephant is pushing him along from the back. With trunks in the air, they clamber onto the shore, albeit rather unceremoniously, to join the rest of the herd.
Gazing up towards the riverbank, the evidence of gentle giants making their way en route to liquid refreshment is clear – there are snaking paths trundled in different sections of Chobe National Park. It’s a rather entertaining display of power and playfulness when families of elephants swim across from the Botswana side to the Namibian islands, especially when there are calves involved. One such instance tugs at the heartstrings – a clumsy baby can’t quite get out of the water and onto the bank; it’s literally a slippery slope for the youngster. Mom comes to the rescue by guiding the little tyke to safety, and relief is palpable, as no one would want this cutie to end up in the crocodile-infested river.
Ray has eagle eyes and constantly finds once-in-a-lifetime sightings while on a boat safari, which are incredible to witness. Spending time adjacent to a colony of endangered African skimmers is a rarity, especially when it’s a family with small chicks.
Hovering 2m above the glassy surface of the Chobe River, a pied kingfisher has his eyes locked on something worth putting so much effort into. Flapping his wings at an exhausting 10-14 beats per second, will this stunning medium-sized bird with his distinctive black-and-white plumage and crest be successful? He hovers some more, then dives downwards vertically with the precision of an Olympic medallist. He returns with an empty bill. A second attempt looks even more impressive – watching him hold position in mid-air before folding his wings, plummeting head-first and brandishing a small shiny fish, which he swallows in flight.
Terra firma
Departing the houseboat, we move over to the Pangolin Hotel. The building is shaped like the eponymous animal, with lots of paraphernalia in and around the property. From here, game drives are conducted in the Chobe National Park, where birds and other wildlife are the stars of the show. Guide Tshidi is taking charge of the safari vehicle, and since we’re on a photographic safari, she stops for interesting subjects. Under a tree, the remains of a young elephant has become a battleground for vultures and marabou storks. A white-backed vulture is under the misguided impression that the carcass belongs to him. He is making his displeasure known by opening up his entire wingspan and vocalising with a shrill ‘squel’, as if to indicate, “Back off, it’s all mine!” Feathers are ruffled as he chases the ‘clean-up crew’ away from his meal.
Big cats are always a highlight, and finding a pride of 10 lions on the afternoon game drive feeding on a giraffe carcass is a great end to the day. What makes it even more special is the playful interaction between different members of the pride, greeting one another by means of head rubbing.
The morning game drive doesn’t disappoint. Mating lions? Check. Leopard under the dense undergrowth of a woolly caper bush? Check. An African fish eagle at the top of a bare-branched leadwood tree overlooking the river? Check.
Local knowledge
Born in the Botswana mining town of Orapa, Pangolin Photo photographic safari host Pusetso studied tourism management in Gaborone. Following an internship at Pangolin Photo Safaris in 2019, she was appointed as a full-time photographic safari host in 2022. She credits renowned wildlife photographer Janine Krayer as her mentor, who took a chance on Pusetso and invited her to try her hand at being a photographic safari host.
“Even though I thought I’d end up somewhere in the tourism industry, I never dreamt it would be this,” Pusetso says, gesturing to the surrounding wilderness and the river. “It’s unbelievable. I honestly didn’t know I would do this as a job or that it even existed in Botswana. I didn’t realise I’d be passionate about anything, let alone doing what I do.”
A mother of two young children, Pusetso speaks enthusiastically about doing what she loves and also imparting her wisdom and skills as she grows in expertise. Her favourite animal is ‘baby everything’ and anything in good light. She shows great patience in assisting with things like shutter speed, ISO and exposure compensation, with her team catering to wildlife photographers of all levels of experience and supplying cameras and lenses to guests travelling without.
Text and photography | Heléne Ramackers
For more information or to book a stay, go to pangolinphoto.com.
