New route to coastal city in northern Mozambique opens up a sanctuary of sand and sea
Well known as a deep-water port with depths of up to 50m, Nacala remains one of the busiest port cities in northern Mozambique. Its industrial side has expanded and ships with tall containers have long stood berthed on the Indian Ocean’s shores, bringing in commercial goods.
However, the perhaps less appreciated and under-explored aspect of the area is its natural beauty. Nacala’s multi-hued ocean expands wide below a crystal-blue sky, and they melt into each other at the horizon’s edge. There is ever-greater local interest in and potential for eco-tourism and sustainable travel, and this will help bring in unmatched experiences for travellers keen to explore this part of the country.

Kwalala Lodge, just north of the city, is aptly called an “oasis of relaxation”, living up to the meaning of its name – an East African term used to describe a place of beauty or rest. The direct view of the sun-kissed waters and the soft breeze blowing between the tall coconut trees and palms at the sea-facing pool create an ideal scenario in which to soak in the surrounding tranquillity, leaving all worldly worries behind. The ever-changing view presents new sights every day, a delight every time.
The lodge has been beautifully designed and curated by the warm, welcoming owners, Mike and Shirley Donald. Apart from being nature lovers, their dedication to making the lodge an inviting place to visit has spanned over 20 years of hard work.

The lodge offers something for all kinds of travellers: family units, self-catering units, twin units and sea-view units. They are all designed with natural materials, featuring stone walls, wooden interiors and décor in two gorgeously married colours – blue and white – making guests feel as connected to nature as possible.
Explore through activity

There are a few places you can go to in the world and feel true peace, a sense that comes to you here as the deep blue, endless ocean calls you to dip into its cool, comforting waters. The Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI)-trained staff (Mike is a diving instructor himself) guide guests through Kwalala’s marine sanctuary, a haven for both thrill- and peace-seekers, allowing them to witness the carefully preserved marine life underwater, including breathtaking creatures such as ribbon eels, octopuses, cuttlefish, leaf fish, lionfish, angelfish and batfish. There are also shoals of rainbow runners, kingfish and the ever-elusive Indian Ocean walkman, which uses its peculiar pectoral fins to ‘walk’ across the ocean floor.

The lodge’s activity centre offers all-weather, night and day access to the ocean. Guests can kayak, snorkel, scuba dive, stand-up paddle or hire a boat. Seasonal whale-watching is also offered, allowing ocean enthusiasts to hear humpback whales communicate or sing as they share the underwater space with the giant creatures.
For travellers wanting to relax after these physical exertions, witnessing the burnt-orange sunset over chilled drinks, enjoying a picnic while basking in the sun with warm sand beneath their feet or taking slow ocean swims are perfect options.
Feeling full

Mornings at the lodge are slow, with the waves crashing in the background and the smell of freshly brewed coffee hanging in the air. Breakfast involves soft, velvety pancakes covered in honey and fresh fruits and nuts, or a delicate slice of bread smothered in tangy orange jam.
The Thirsty Whale Restaurant, situated at the top of a rise, allows guests to enjoy an ocean view while dining. Arguably one of the best aspects of eating here is the wide range of cuisine the restaurant offers its guests on a concise yet comprehensive menu. The kitchen uses locally sourced ingredients, including fresh seafood from the ocean out front, as well as produce grown in the lodge’s own garden. Their home-made chilli sauce adds a perfect piquant twist.
The restaurant’s lunch and dinner menus range from Mozambican prawns and Indian butter chicken to burgers – something for all tastes. A must-try is the teriyaki chicken, glazed with sweet and savoury soy sauce, creating the perfect balance.
The desserts on the menu are an optimal way to end your meal, with the banana spring rolls and apple crumble being the guests’ favourites – a wonderful, sweet ending to a brilliant experience.
Text | Aayat Irfan
Photography | Supplied
For more information or to book a stay, go to kwalala-lodges.com.
